It was weird on Yari's little peak. The celebrant one, in all three of these pictures, (a) was drunk, (b) had just completed the 100 mountains, and (c) very nearly fell off to his death. Very amusing fellow, and quite an achievement in the non-greater scheme of things. He certainly amused me and will remain part of my Yari experience.
The faces have been silhouetted to protect the innocent.
What with the altitude and fear playing tricks with the head and the other characters who were up there, the peak had the feel of a David Lynch film.
Sugorokudake and Mitsumatarengeidake, Day 6.
Washibadake, another of the 100 mountains, seen from Mitsumata Sansou.
Another view of Washiba.
A lone hiker stares into the abyss on the Nishakamaone, the at times hairy west ridge route to Yari.
Yakushidake at twilight, the day after we'd gone over it in the fog.
For someone who has spent much more time in the South Alps, this trip showed me the beauty and sheer expanse of their northern cousins. And let's be clear: the "ultimate hike in Japan" is just one of any number of combinations possible in this vast range.
Another Yari view from further down the valley.
Japan's most exposed ladder, leading to the respite of Yari's summit. Never before have I seen a ladder treated with such trepidation and respect. Every face bore a different emotion. In this climber's case, like in mine, fear of death. She got a nice round of applause on reaching the top. For some reason I inspired laughter instead.
Yari on the clearest of blue mornings, Day 7. The day before we'd sat on its tiny peak, wondering how the hell we were going to get down.
Sunset at Sugonorikoshi, Day 3. Typhoon 13 had left us stranded, with winds so high to make the formidable Yakushidake impassable. There was nothing else to do but photograph the sunset.
Day 5. The hat reaches the peak of Kurobegorodake, a beautiful mountain in the very depths of the North Alps.
The infinitely-annoying-once-you-get-to-know-it Lonely Planet: Hiking in Japan calls the six or seven day hike through the North Alps from Tateyama to Kamikochi the "ultimate hike in Japan", "the hike every Japanese hiker would do if he/she had the time". Well, we've finally made the time.
Seven days walking the high ridges of the North Alps! Not everyone's idea of a dream holiday, and I'm sure we'll be stinking and half dead by the time we finally descend on Kamikochi for a bath, but I can't think of anything I'd rather do. Reports and millions of photos to follow. Here's hoping the ptarmigan's waiting and the weather god she smiles.