Tochigi Prefecture is so very proud of the Irohazaka, the hair-raising, zig-zagging mountain road that climbs a perilous trail from Nikko up to Lake Chuzenji, Mt. Nantai and beyond. The recorded bus announcement tells us so. Even in summer, taking this bus makes me nauseous. Now on a Saturday morning in the throes of winter, the road is all ice and snow. I close my eyes and pray the driver wasn't on the drink last night, only really opening them again 25 minutes later when we make it to the plateau above.
Lake Chuzenji comes into view on the left. It hasn't frozen over. The Japanese sharing the bus with me peer out the window on the right in hope of seeing the Kegon Falls. Knowing they won't, I don't bother. Mt. Nantai, which I climbed last May, looks as imposing as ever, but not quite as white as I expected.
Most of the tourists get off at Chuzenji Onsen. They'll probably go see the falls, stroll around the lake, eat yuba, and soak in a hot-spring. Not a bad way of spending a day, by any means. We drive on along the lake, past the Futara Shrine, and out towards the Toshogu Shrine complex, on the road up to Yumoto Onsen. In just two hours from Tokyo, we've reached snow country.
A car teeters over the edge of the road, front wheels and hood raised in the air, its back pointing down toward the lake below. It could go over at any second. Somehow the passengers have got out and are standing beside their car. They look dazed and worried. We drive on, leaving them to wait for the rescue services and hope the wind doesn't pick up much more. I try to picture how the car ended up like that.
At Senjo Field, white birch rise out above the snow carpet. These are the most beautiful trees in my world. The battlefield of the Gods has changed a lot since when I was here last April. A middle-aged couple with cross-country skis get off and disappear into the fog of swirling snow. The wind rises, and suddenly we're in the middle of a blizzard. The bus comes to a stop, unable to move forward for lack of visibility. We are cocooned in a world of whiteness, warm, safe and unconcerned.
The wind drops enough for the bus to crawl slowly forward again. We pass Akanuma, the red marsh. It's not red today. A bubbly family behing me who have been cracking bad gags the whole way from Nikko Station take their leave and descend into the whiteness. They wear the joy of their togetherness with ease, as if happy families were natural and commonplace.
Situated higher still, Lake Yu hasn't been as successful as its big neighbour on the lower plateau. Only a small area on the corner around the natural hot-springs hasn't succumbed to ice. In this little patch, families of ducks gather and behave as if nothing has changed.
Soon we are delivered safely to the terminus at Yumoto Onsen, a snow-clad village a world away from Tokyo and the thoughts of yesterday. Entranced as ever by this magical enclave in the depths of Nikko, I climb out into the weekend and the snow.
It's great following your accounts of your travels, especially when you describe the meetings with people and reactions to small things. I see you got a chance to try out some snow shoes. What do you think? Did you get a chance to walk in the marsh?
Next weekend I'll be heading to Yumoto Onsen for some walking myself. A lot of snow is said to have been dumped in the last three days, so it ought to be a lot better than when I went there five years ago and the snow was about one centimeter deep. I wonder if Lake Chuzenji is finally frozen over yet?
Posted by: butuki at January 27, 2005 3:14 AM | Permalink to CommentThanks Butuki.
I found snowshoes very useful and easy to use. I've never felt so much control walking on snow. Having said that, there is always the problem of not knowing what is under the snow for your next step, so I didn't venture into many potentially tricky places but just walked around the lake to get the feel for the snoeshoes themselves.
There's digging themselves out of their houses Yumoto Onsen at the moment. I've never seen so much snow, even on winter trips to Hokkaido. The ski slopes were just perfect. If you're at all into skiing, I really recommend bringing your skis along when you go. One other thought: don't eat in the restaurants at the bottom of the slopes. Food is awful there.
Does Lake Chuzenji ever freeze over? That would be some sight.
Posted by: Setsunai at January 27, 2005 11:30 AM | Permalink to Comment